How Cleaning Sink with Baking Soda and Lemons?

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Dampen your sink. Before you apply the baking soda, lightly dampen the basin of the ceramic sink. You can do this by allowing the sink to fill with water and then draining it, or using your hand to splash water around on the sides of the basin. Make sure that no standing water is left in the sink, as this will dissolve the baking soda and render it useless.


Also dampen the sponge that you plan to clean the sink with. You don’t want the sponge soggy, so wring it out well before you start cleaning. Sprinkle baking soda into the sink. You can start by adding about ½ cup (0.25 liter). Use your fingers or a spoon to sprinkle the baking soda in the basin of the sink, until the ceramic has been fully coated. Make sure to apply baking soda to any areas that are soiled or stained.


Scrub the baking soda with a damp sponge. Baking soda functions as a mild abrasive, and will be effective at cleaning mineral buildup, leftover toothpaste, and general dirt and grime off of the ceramic. Rinse the sponge as needed, and make sure to wring it out fully before you return to scrubbing the ceramic. Once you’ve cleaned the sink, rinse it well with water.


While you’re scrubbing, you should notice the baking soda clumping together into small lumps. This is a good sign: it means that the baking soda is not too wet, and that it’s effectively picking up dirt from your sink.


Whiten the sink with lemon slices. To naturally “bleach” your ceramic sink, start by cutting a lemon into several wedges. Take each wedge and rub it around the basin of the sink, making sure to squeeze out plenty of lemon juice on the ceramic. You can use the tough skin of the lemon to scrub at stains or other darkened areas.

How Attaching the Grille?

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Twist the same color wires together (usually white to white and black or red to black) and add the connectors. Wrap the bare copper wire around the green grounding clip or screw and tighten to secure. Place the wires back in the electrical splice unit and reattach the cover.


If you don’t feel confident about doing the wiring yourself, don’t hesitate to call in a licensed electrician to install the fan or simply inspect your work when you’re done. Also be aware that aluminum (rather than copper) wiring requires special handling and any electrical work involving this type of wiring should be undertaken by a professional.


Attach the grille. Now you’re almost finished. Plug the blower motor into the electrical receptacle and secure it with the screws provided. Install the decorative plastic grille by slipping its mounting wires into the available slots in the housing unit. Make sure it sits snugly against the ceiling — spread the mounting wires a little to create more tension, if necessary.


Turn the power back on and test your new bathroom fan to make sure it’s working. Attach the duct. Once the fan is in place, connect a 90 degree duct elbow to the fan’s exhaust port using sheet metal screws. Then attach a new 4 to 6 inch (10.2 to 15.2 cm) duct pipe to the duct elbow.


It is possible to use the duct pipe from the old fan, but if it is less than 4 inches (10.2 cm) in diameter you will need to install a duct pipe reducer before reattaching the pipe. However be aware that using a smaller, older duct pipe will prevent the fan from working as efficiently.

The Knowledge of Install a Bathroom Fan

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Wait 24 hours before turning on the water. To give the caulk and other adhesives time to dry, wait at least a full day. Then, you can turn on the water and check for leaks. If you find any problems, contact a certified plumber. Make sure you apply this paste to the corners of your shower door’s frame, as this is where rust and soap scum are likely to build up and harder to clean otherwise.


You can run the vent through the sidewall or roof, whichever is most convenient. Just make sure the duct pipe is as straight as possible and that it won’t be stretched too tightly. Attach the vent cap. The process for attaching the vent cap will vary depending on whether the exit point is on the roof or sidewall.


If your exit point is on the sidewall, pick a point between two wall studs and take some reference measurements on the inside so you can locate the same point on the outside. Use a 4-inch hole saw to cut through wall from the outside, then secure the vent cap in place.


If your exit point is on the roof, draw an appropriate sized circle on the inside and use a reciprocating saw to cut it out. Then get on the roof (taking all of the proper safety precautions) and remove the shingles covering the newly cut hole. Install the vent cap, using roofing cement and roofing nails, then replace any loose shingles. Move back into the attic and attach the end of the duct pipe to the vent cap’s connector duct using foil duct tape.


Wire the connections in the housing unit. Depending on the type of fan, you may need to wire the connections from the attic or from the bathroom. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions and double check that the power is off before proceeding. Open up the housing unit and pull out the fan wires from the electrical splice unit. Strip 5⁄8 inch (1.6 cm) back from each of the wires on both the fan cable and the electrical cable you inserted earlier.

How to Install a Bathroom Fan?

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Bathroom fans are essential for removing moisture and bad odors from the bathrooms in your home, thus preventing the growth of mold and mildew. By removing excess moisture from the air, you can also prevent wallpaper and paint from peeling and prevent doors and windows from becoming warped. Installing or replacing a bathroom fan is a moderately easy DIY project for homeowners with basic electrical and carpentry skills.


Gather the required tools. Installing a bathroom fan is a manageable DIY project for homeowners with basic carpentry and electrical skills. Before you begin, it’s a good idea to have all of the required tools and materials easily at hand. In terms of tools, you will need some basic hand tools such as a screwdriver and a combination pliers, in addition to a power drill and a jigsaw.


In terms of materials, you will need a length of flexible duct pipe, a vent cap, screws, caulk and wire nuts. If you’re running the duct pip out through the roof you will also need roofing cement, shingles and roofing nails. You will also need a stepladder in order to reach the fan from below, safety goggles and a respirator to wear while drilling, and roof brackets, roof cleats or a safety harness for potential roof work.


Now that the fan is secure, take the length of flexible duct pipe and attach one end to the 90 degree duct elbow protruding from fan housing using foil duct tape. Now is also a good time to run an existing or new electrical cable through the connector on the fan housing. You can secure the cable by tightening the screw on the connector. Be aware that you’ll need to use a three-wire cable if your new fan includes a light.


Find a suitable exit point for the duct pipe. The next step is to find the shortest, straightest route from the housing fan to the outside. The longer the duct pipe is, the less efficient the fan will be. It is essential to vent the fan exhaust outdoors. Venting it directly into the attic would promote mold growth and potentially cause the rafters to mold.

The Knowledge of Rinse Shower Clean

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Rinse the shower clean. Flush every surface of the shower with warm water, taking care to get rid of any lingering juice or pulp from the lemon. If necessary, go back over the acrylic one more time with a soft towel or sponge. When you’re done, your shower should be pristine and have a fresh, clean scent!


Let the first coat of paint dry and then apply a second one. It should take about 15-20 minutes for the first coat of paint to be dry to the touch. Once it is, go ahead and apply a second coat, working systemically as you go so you don’t miss any areas. “Drying” and “curing” are two different things. Paint can be dry but not yet cured—the curing is when the paint dries and also hardens, and it generally takes a much longer time than just drying. Proceed with the second coat of paint once the first coat has simply dried.


Use acetone on a clean washcloth to remove any residual cleaner. Dampen a clean washcloth with the acetone and wipe down the interior and exterior of the tub. Continue to wear your gloves—acetone can really dry out or hurt your skin if it comes into contact with it. If there was any remaining cleaner, grease, or grime, the acetone will get rid of it.


Connect the drain to the P-trap. Thread the drain chute into the P-trap under the tub. You may need to use PVC pipe to connect the drain chute to the P-trap if they don’t align perfectly. If that’s the case, dry-fit the pieces first and secure the PVC pipe to the chute and P-trap with ABS cement to prevent it from coming loose.


Caulk the tub to the floor. Run a bead of silicone caulk along the outside edge of the tub where it meets the floor. Make sure it meets both outside corners to prevent water from getting in between the tub and floor. Smooth out the bead with your finger or a damp rag.

Replacement a Bathroom Fan

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Turn off the power. Before you begin, you will need to turn off the power to the fan from the circuit breaker box. Unplug the motor and disconnect the wiring. Put on a pair of gloves, safety goggles and a respirator and remove the grille covering from the old fan. You may be shocked at the amount of dirt and debris that fall out of it!


Unscrew or unplug the motor blower assembly from the housing unit, then open up the electrical splice unit and carefully pull out the wires. Remove the connectors and untwist the wires to disconnect them. It’s a good idea to double check that power to the wires is off before doing this. Loosen the cable clamp to free the electrical cable from the fan housing.


Go to the attic and remove the housing. In the attic, detach the duct pipe from both the housing unit and the vent cap connector duct. Pull the electrical cable and wiring free from the housing unit. Use a power drill to remove the screws securing the old fan’s brackets to the joists, then lift the old fan from the ceiling.


Install the new fan. Head back down to your bathroom and remove the new fan from its packaging. If it has the same measurements as your old fan, you will be able to install it immediately. But if the new fan is bigger than the old one, you will need to enlarge the hole in your ceiling. You can do this by tracing the outline of your new fan onto the ceiling, then cutting around the outline with a drywall saw.


If your new fan is smaller than the old one, you can caulk around the edges of the housing unit to fill in any gaps once the fan is installed. Go to the attic and lower the new fan into the preexisting or newly enlarged hole. Make sure the unit is properly oriented for all electrical and duct work connections. Slide out the extendable mounting brackets and secure them to the joists using your power drill and 1 inch (2.5 cm) drywall screws. You may need a helper to hold the fan in place from below as you do this.

Installation a Bathroom Fan

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Drill a reference hole and mark the ceiling. Take your power drill and use an extra-long, 3⁄4 inch (1.9 cm) spade bit to drill a reference hole in the ceiling, where you intend to place the fan. Measure the vent fan housing. Head up to the attic, find the reference hole and clear away the insulation surrounding it. Use the the fan housing measurements to ensure that the fan will fit in the chosen spot, between two joists.


Go back to the bathroom and measure the fan’s intake port. You will need these dimensions to cut the appropriate sized hole in your ceiling. Use a framing square and pencil to mark the outline of the fan’s intake port on the ceiling, using the measurements you just took. Cut the intake-port hole. Use your jigsaw to cut out the portion of ceiling you just marked. If you don’t have a jigsaw, you could also use a reciprocating or drywall saw.


Don’t let the cut section of ceiling fall to the floor after cutting, as it could pull additional pieces of drywall or plaster with it. Use your free hand to support the rectangular piece of ceiling and gently lower it to the floor. Remember to wear safety goggles and a respirator while sawing through plaster and drywall to protect your eyes and lungs.


Put the fan in position. Before you lower the fan into the hole you just cut, attach a 90 degree duct elbow (to which you will later attach the duct pipe) to the appropriate outlet port using foil duct tape. Insert a cable connector through the removable knockout hole on the side of the fan’s housing, then slide the supporting metal brackets into place.


Center the fan over the ceiling hole and lower it into place, making sure any connection points are oriented correctly. Secure the fan to the joists. Once the fan is positioned correctly, extend each of the metal brackets until they reach the joists on either side of the housing unit. Use drywall screws to firmly secure each bracket end to the joist.

How Preparation of Install a Bathroom Fan?

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Determine the correct CFM rating for your bathroom. The first thing you need to do when installing a new bathroom fan is determine the CFM rating for your bathroom, so you can buy the appropriate strength fan. CFM stands for “Cubic Feet per Minute” and refers to how much air the fan can move per minute. Small bathrooms will need low CFM fans, while larger bathrooms may require fans with a much higher CFM.


To calculate the CFM for your bathroom, multiply the room’s cubic footage (length x width x height). For example, if your bathroom measured 120 square feet, you would multiply that by the height of the ceiling (say 8′) to get 960. THEN divide by 7.5 to get a CFM rating of 128. You will find the CFM rating of a new fan printed on its box.


Consider the sound rating of your fan. The next thing to consider is the sound rating of your new fan, which is measured in sones. New fans usually have a sound rating somewhere between 0.5 (very quiet) and 6 (very loud) sones. Some people prefer to have very quiet fans, while others value the privacy offered by louder fans, especially in public areas of the home.


Like the CFM, the sone ratings of new fans will be printed on the box. Choose the location of the fan. The location of your bathroom fan is important. It should be installed at the center point between your shower and toilet for optimum ventilation. However, if your bathroom is very large, you may need to install more than one fan.


If you are installing a new fan, you will need to consider the layout of your attic, where the bulk of the fan will be located. It should be placed in the the space between two joists, in an area free from any pipes or other obstructions. If you are replacing an old fan, the easiest thing to do is just to put the new fan in same location (unless you have a very good reason for wanting it in a different spot).

How to Clean Soap Scum from Glass Shower Doors?

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If you have glass doors in your shower, you’ve probably noticed that after a while, a white film tends to build up on the glass. This soap scum is caused by the mixture of animal fats in soap with some of the minerals in your shower water. Fortunately, you don’t have to put up with this scum on your door! You can easily clean off the scum with a commercial cleaner or ordinary household products. Then, all you have to do is make a few simple lifestyle changes in order to keep the scum from building up again.


Mix vinegar and baking soda to clean stains as well as soap scum. Pour 1/2 cup (115 grams) of baking soda into a small bucket, then add about 1⁄4 cup (59 mL) of white vinegar to the bucket. Use a spoon to stir these ingredients into a paste. Dip a clean sponge into the paste and wipe it on your shower door. Let it sit for 15 minutes, then rinse the paste off the door while scrubbing it with a microfiber cloth.


The paste that forms in the bucket should be about the consistency of pancake batter. You may need to add a bit more baking soda or a bit more vinegar to the mix in order to get it to this consistency. This is the best method to use if there are also hard water stains on your shower door that you want to get rid of.


Go with toilet bowl cleaner if that’s all you have. Although it’s not designed for cleaning glass shower doors, toilet bowl cleaner is occasionally effective at removing soap scum. Soak a sponge in hot water, then apply a small amount of toilet bowl cleaner to the sponge. Wipe the shower door with the sponge to clean off the soap scum, then rinse off the residue once you’re done.


Be sure to keep your bathroom well ventilated when using toilet bowl cleaner. The odors from the cleaner can be pretty powerful, especially in a small room. Use lemon juice and salt if the door frame is made of metal. This is the best cleaning method to use to also remove any rust on your door’s metal frame. Mix 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of lemon juice with 2 tablespoons (34 grams) of salt to form a cleaning paste. Use an old toothbrush to scrub this mixture into the door frame and let it sit for about 5 minutes. Finally, rinse it off with warm water.

How Preventing the Buildup of Soap Scum?

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Switch to body wash instead of bar soap in the shower. Soap scum is caused by the organic animal fat contained in bar soap. If you don’t like using synthetic body wash, you can also opt to use fat-free soap and shampoo instead of ordinary bar soap. You can buy body wash at any store that also sells bar soap. To buy fat-free bar soap, you may need to go to a health and beauty shop or a cosmetics store.


Dry the door with a squeegee after every shower you take. Keeping your shower door dry whenever you’re not actually in the shower is a great way to prevent the buildup of soap scum as well as mold. If you don’t have a squeegee, you can also use a clean towel to keep your door dry. Squeegees tend to be pretty cost-effective and you can usually buy them in the cleaning section of most grocery stores and mass retailers.


This may seem like a chore to do in the short term, but it’s much easier to squeegee your shower door after you shower than it is to clean off soap scum that’s been building up for a long time. You should also open your bathroom windows or leave the fan running for at least 30 minutes after every shower. This will help dry out the bathroom and prevent the growth of mold and mildew.


Apply baby oil or white vinegar to the shower door. Put some baby oil or vinegar on a scouring brush, then scrub the oil or vinegar onto the entire surface of the door. Finally, rinse off the door with warm water. Repeat this process once a week to keep your shower door scum-free.


The chemical compositions of baby oil and white vinegar both work to repel soap scum, making it much less likely to accumulate on your shower door. Be sure to rinse the door really well if you use baby oil, since it may cling a bit to the door. You can also use commercial glass-cleaning products, such as Rain-X, to prevent buildup.