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The Knowledge of Install a Bathroom Fan

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Wait 24 hours before turning on the water. To give the caulk and other adhesives time to dry, wait at least a full day. Then, you can turn on the water and check for leaks. If you find any problems, contact a certified plumber. Make sure you apply this paste to the corners of your shower door’s frame, as this is where rust and soap scum are likely to build up and harder to clean otherwise.


You can run the vent through the sidewall or roof, whichever is most convenient. Just make sure the duct pipe is as straight as possible and that it won’t be stretched too tightly. Attach the vent cap. The process for attaching the vent cap will vary depending on whether the exit point is on the roof or sidewall.


If your exit point is on the sidewall, pick a point between two wall studs and take some reference measurements on the inside so you can locate the same point on the outside. Use a 4-inch hole saw to cut through wall from the outside, then secure the vent cap in place.


If your exit point is on the roof, draw an appropriate sized circle on the inside and use a reciprocating saw to cut it out. Then get on the roof (taking all of the proper safety precautions) and remove the shingles covering the newly cut hole. Install the vent cap, using roofing cement and roofing nails, then replace any loose shingles. Move back into the attic and attach the end of the duct pipe to the vent cap’s connector duct using foil duct tape.


Wire the connections in the housing unit. Depending on the type of fan, you may need to wire the connections from the attic or from the bathroom. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions and double check that the power is off before proceeding. Open up the housing unit and pull out the fan wires from the electrical splice unit. Strip 5⁄8 inch (1.6 cm) back from each of the wires on both the fan cable and the electrical cable you inserted earlier.

The Knowledge of Rinse Shower Clean

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Rinse the shower clean. Flush every surface of the shower with warm water, taking care to get rid of any lingering juice or pulp from the lemon. If necessary, go back over the acrylic one more time with a soft towel or sponge. When you’re done, your shower should be pristine and have a fresh, clean scent!


Let the first coat of paint dry and then apply a second one. It should take about 15-20 minutes for the first coat of paint to be dry to the touch. Once it is, go ahead and apply a second coat, working systemically as you go so you don’t miss any areas. “Drying” and “curing” are two different things. Paint can be dry but not yet cured—the curing is when the paint dries and also hardens, and it generally takes a much longer time than just drying. Proceed with the second coat of paint once the first coat has simply dried.


Use acetone on a clean washcloth to remove any residual cleaner. Dampen a clean washcloth with the acetone and wipe down the interior and exterior of the tub. Continue to wear your gloves—acetone can really dry out or hurt your skin if it comes into contact with it. If there was any remaining cleaner, grease, or grime, the acetone will get rid of it.


Connect the drain to the P-trap. Thread the drain chute into the P-trap under the tub. You may need to use PVC pipe to connect the drain chute to the P-trap if they don’t align perfectly. If that’s the case, dry-fit the pieces first and secure the PVC pipe to the chute and P-trap with ABS cement to prevent it from coming loose.


Caulk the tub to the floor. Run a bead of silicone caulk along the outside edge of the tub where it meets the floor. Make sure it meets both outside corners to prevent water from getting in between the tub and floor. Smooth out the bead with your finger or a damp rag.

How Applying the Paint?

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Tape protective sheets on the walls and floor. Before you paint, use masking or painters tape to secure plastic sheeting to the walls surrounding the tub, as well as to the floor underneath the tub. You may also want to lay plastic sheeting over any other fixtures, like the toilet or sink, and remove decorations, towels, and beauty products.


The paint you’re going to use is an acrylic spray paint, and the “dust” from it will settle on the walls and floors. Put on a respirator and wear old clothes once you’re ready to paint. Your clothes are going to get covered in paint dust, so wear things that you don’t mind getting dirty. And use a respirator for safety purposes—the fumes from the paint will be really strong. Remember to keep a window open or a fan running during the painting process.


Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to prepare it properly. For a cast-iron or fiberglass tub, you can use acrylic urethane enamel, which may already come mixed for you, or you may have to mix it it, just depending on what kind of kit you purchased.
For fiberglass tubs, you can also use a two-part epoxy paint instead of the acrylic. The epoxy paint can be used on porcelain and ceramic tubs, too.


The easiest option for DIYing the paint job is to purchase kits that are designed specifically for that purpose. Some companies even provide spray cans of acrylic urethane enamel that you don’t have to mix at all. Load your spray gun and put the lid on the paint can. Follow the spray gun’s instructions for how much paint should be loaded into the body. Keep the lid on the paint can so that the enamel doesn’t start to dry up.


If you don’t want to use a spray gun, you could also use paint brushes and rollers. In that case, you wouldn’t need to load anything and could just mix the paint in its can to prepare. Coat the entire tub with long, even motions. Work systematically by starting at a top interior corner and working your way across the length of the tub. Keep the spray gun about 8 inches (20 cm) away from the tub. Repeat this process until the entire interior is painted, and then move on to the outside of the tub.

How to Buy a Bathroom Mirror?

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Bathroom mirrors combine both style and function, and can have a big impact on the small but important space of the bathroom. Deciding on an approximate size, style and placement of the mirror, and taking into account your budget and existing bathroom decor, will make your trip to the mirror store easy and efficient.

Consider both the height of the wall and the height of the people who will be using the bathroom most often. For example, a bathroom used only by adults will probably have a taller mirror than one used frequently by children. Make sure your mirror is tall enough to accommodate people at least of average height (5’5” or 165 cm for women, 5’10” or 178 cm for men) and slightly taller and shorter.

Install sconces alongside the mirror or lights above it for a bathroom with no window. Make sure the lighting source will provide enough light to see your reflection clearly but won’t create a glare on the mirror. Sconces vary widely in size, but in the bathroom you should go with a smaller model, about 8-10 in. (20-25cm), or thin and elongated. Your sconces should be about 1/3-2/3rds the length of the mirror.

Buy 2 of the same model and place them at least 4 in (10 cm) away from the mirror on either side. Factor their size and distance from the mirror into your measurements. Take care not to place the sconces too high or too low. Line them up with the center of the mirror.

Place the mirror a few inches (several cm) above the sink to lessen backsplash. If your sink is prone to splashing water out, place your mirror high enough above the vanity so that it won’t get hit. Remember to factor this into your measurements for the height of your mirror.

Accommodate accessories and/or electrical outlets. If you plan to install sconces or have electrical outlets around your mirror, factor them into your mirror’s size and placement. Make sure to leave a few inches or several centimeters of space between the mirror and electrical outlets to avoid cluttering the space. If you plan to put décor or practical objects on your countertop, make sure to place them so they won’t collide with your mirror.

How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation?

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Choose bright ceiling and vanity lights. Well-lit bathrooms seem larger and they make it easier to do day-to-day things, such as applying makeup or shaving. Include multiple lights in your design, such as ceiling grid lights as well as a fixture above the vanity. Make sure your lighting matches the rest of your room’s decor. If you can’t add new lights to your room, try using fixtures that hold multiple bulbs.

Leave room for storage in your bathroom. Leave any closets in your bathroom so you have the built-in storage spaces. If you need more storage, get a cabinet or vanity underneath your sink or hang shelves on your wall. Try using baskets or crates to hold toiletries or towels to give your bathroom an open and inviting look. If you don’t need a full tub, try replacing it with shower stall if you can so you have the space to make storage shelves or a closet.

Pick a flooring that’s water-resistant. Common flooring options for bathrooms include tile or vinyl since they’re easy to install and prevent water from getting into your subfloor. Pick a color and design that matches the rest of your bathroom so your space looks cohesive. Look for tiles online or at a local home renovation store to get ideas of what’s available.

Try differently shaped tiles, such as hexagonal or octagonal, to make your floor more unique. If you don’t want to step on cold floors when you get out of the shower or bath, consider installing heated floors to stay warm. Get a ventilation fan that’s large enough for your space. Bathrooms need to have airflow or else mold could develop. Find the area of your bathroom, and get a vent with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) output that is equal to or greater than the area.

For example, if your bathroom is 8 ft × 10 ft (2.4 m × 3.0 m), then you need a fan with 80 CFM. If your bathroom doesn’t have ventilation, have a professional install it for you. Even if you have a window in your bathroom, it’s still recommended to have a fan to prevent mold and mildew.

How Cleaning Faucets?

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Rub in the cleaning agent. Use a sponge, cloth, or soft bristle brush and make tight, circular strokes. If your shower is very dirty, then you may need to rinse your sponge, cloth, or bristle brush in-between passes. Don’t use hard bristle brushes, and never use metal scrubbers. These can scratch your walls and tub.

Rinse the shower wall with clean water. Use your cup or bucket to splash water on the wall, removing the remaining cleaning agent and the grime. If you have a detachable shower head, then use that to rinse the shower wall instead. If your shower wall still looks dirty, then re-apply the cleaning agent and repeat the process. Repeat for the remaining shower wall sections and tub. Spray the next section, let it soak, rub in the cleaner, and rinse for each of the three to four sections.

Scrub grout with a bleach-water mixture. If you have grout, clean it with bleach and a small scrub brush. Mix two parts water and one part bleach. Use a grout scrubber to clean the grout with your mixture. Use an old toothbrush as a scrubber. Don’t clean your grout with bleach and water while you clean your shower walls with the cleaning agent. Mixing chemicals is dangerous. Turn on the shower for a final rinse. Allow your shower to run for about a minute so that the bleach and any remaining cleaning product are rinsed away.

Rinse your faucet. Splash water up over your faucet to wet the surface and wash away debris.You should clean your faucet weekly to remove spots and stains. Toothpaste and soap often leave flecks on faucets, and they are easiest to remove when they are recent. Mix equal parts vinegar and hot water. Create a cleaning and polishing agent using white vinegar and hot water. Your water should be hot, but not boiling.

Wet a cloth. Dip your cloth in your vinegar-water mixture. Be careful not to burn yourself with the hot water. Wipe your faucet to remove spots. Work the cloth in circular movements as you polish away hard water spots and other splash marks on your faucet. Use a clean cloth to dry the faucet so that you don’t leave streaks.