Posts

The Knowledge of Bathtub Installation

/in /by


For a fiberglass surround, set the entire piece in place so it covers the tub flange. Drive screws with an electric screwdriver into the divots along the sides and top of the surround so it’s secured to the studs. Seal the gap between the tile and tub with silicone sealant. Once you’ve secured the tiles to the backerboard, place a thin bead of silicone around the bottom of the of the tiles to fill in the gap.


Put the tip of the sealant dispenser into the gap, and pull the line slowly so it applies smoothly. Wipe any excess sealant away with your finger. Use your finger to press the bead of caulk into the crack and create a smooth finish by running it over the caulk from one end to the other. Be sure to give the caulk enough time to completely dry before using the bathtub as well.


Drying time will vary based on the type you use, so read the instructions included carefully. Get a 2-component epoxy chip repair kit from the bathroom remodeling or adhesive section of a home improvement store if your kit did not come with it. Put painter’s tape on the walls and around any plumbing fixtures.


Tape along the edges of the tub where they touch the walls and around the faucet and other fixtures. Even if you have a steady hand, it’s easy for paint to go astray! Painter’s tape is the blue masking tape that you can find at hardware and paint stores. Apply 1 coat of primer with a brush and roller.


Use a roller to roll on the primer onto the large, flat sections of the tub like the floor and sides, then use a brush to get into the corners and curved parts. Let it dry for at least 2-3 hours before you start to paint on the new finish. Priming the surface is an important part of ensuring that the new finish adheres correctly so that you end up with the correct texture. Make sure that the primer is completely dry to the touch before you paint over it.

Replacement a Bathroom Fan

/in /by


Turn off the power. Before you begin, you will need to turn off the power to the fan from the circuit breaker box. Unplug the motor and disconnect the wiring. Put on a pair of gloves, safety goggles and a respirator and remove the grille covering from the old fan. You may be shocked at the amount of dirt and debris that fall out of it!


Unscrew or unplug the motor blower assembly from the housing unit, then open up the electrical splice unit and carefully pull out the wires. Remove the connectors and untwist the wires to disconnect them. It’s a good idea to double check that power to the wires is off before doing this. Loosen the cable clamp to free the electrical cable from the fan housing.


Go to the attic and remove the housing. In the attic, detach the duct pipe from both the housing unit and the vent cap connector duct. Pull the electrical cable and wiring free from the housing unit. Use a power drill to remove the screws securing the old fan’s brackets to the joists, then lift the old fan from the ceiling.


Install the new fan. Head back down to your bathroom and remove the new fan from its packaging. If it has the same measurements as your old fan, you will be able to install it immediately. But if the new fan is bigger than the old one, you will need to enlarge the hole in your ceiling. You can do this by tracing the outline of your new fan onto the ceiling, then cutting around the outline with a drywall saw.


If your new fan is smaller than the old one, you can caulk around the edges of the housing unit to fill in any gaps once the fan is installed. Go to the attic and lower the new fan into the preexisting or newly enlarged hole. Make sure the unit is properly oriented for all electrical and duct work connections. Slide out the extendable mounting brackets and secure them to the joists using your power drill and 1 inch (2.5 cm) drywall screws. You may need a helper to hold the fan in place from below as you do this.

How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation?

/in /by

Choose bright ceiling and vanity lights. Well-lit bathrooms seem larger and they make it easier to do day-to-day things, such as applying makeup or shaving. Include multiple lights in your design, such as ceiling grid lights as well as a fixture above the vanity. Make sure your lighting matches the rest of your room’s decor. If you can’t add new lights to your room, try using fixtures that hold multiple bulbs.

Leave room for storage in your bathroom. Leave any closets in your bathroom so you have the built-in storage spaces. If you need more storage, get a cabinet or vanity underneath your sink or hang shelves on your wall. Try using baskets or crates to hold toiletries or towels to give your bathroom an open and inviting look. If you don’t need a full tub, try replacing it with shower stall if you can so you have the space to make storage shelves or a closet.

Pick a flooring that’s water-resistant. Common flooring options for bathrooms include tile or vinyl since they’re easy to install and prevent water from getting into your subfloor. Pick a color and design that matches the rest of your bathroom so your space looks cohesive. Look for tiles online or at a local home renovation store to get ideas of what’s available.

Try differently shaped tiles, such as hexagonal or octagonal, to make your floor more unique. If you don’t want to step on cold floors when you get out of the shower or bath, consider installing heated floors to stay warm. Get a ventilation fan that’s large enough for your space. Bathrooms need to have airflow or else mold could develop. Find the area of your bathroom, and get a vent with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) output that is equal to or greater than the area.

For example, if your bathroom is 8 ft × 10 ft (2.4 m × 3.0 m), then you need a fan with 80 CFM. If your bathroom doesn’t have ventilation, have a professional install it for you. Even if you have a window in your bathroom, it’s still recommended to have a fan to prevent mold and mildew.

How Making Basin Final Connections and Testing?

/in /by

Allow the caulk on a top-mount sink to cure for 24 hours. Instead of making the final connections right away, it’s better to give the silicone caulk time to set up. This will prevent the sink from shifting and breaking the solid bead of caulk that you made. If you’re installing an undermount sink, you should already have waited 24 hours before putting in the sink drain. In this case, you can proceed with the last steps of the installation.Reconnect the water lines and the P-trap underneath the sink. You just need to do the reverse of the disconnecting process. Hand-tighten the water lines where they connect to the hot and cold shutoff valves or use a crescent wrench if needed. Similarly, use your hands to tighten the nut on a PVC P-trap or channel locks for a metal P-trap.If your new sink drain is a little shorter than your old one, you can buy a P-trap pipe extension at your local hardware store. The extension can be cut to fit and will also connect in place with a nut that you’ll either hand-tighten or secure with channel locks. If your new sink drain is a little too long, you can cut off some of the pipe either at the top of the P-trap or the bottom of the drain. Use a hacksaw or pipe cutter to make the adjustment.Turn the water back on and check for leaks. Open the hot and cold water valves by turning them counterclockwise. Then, open the hot and cold faucet taps fully and let the water run for at least 2-3 minutes. Watch under the cabinet for any leaks in the water lines, drain lines, or elsewhere. Tighten any loose connections as needed.Keep the bucket or towel at the bottom of the sink cabinet while you test for leaks. If you have a leak at a pipe connection, try shutting off the water, undoing the connection, wrapping some plumber’s tape around the pipe threads, and then re-making the connection. If you can’t figure out where a leak is coming from and/or how to fix it, shut off the water supply lines and call a plumber.