Get a razor scraper to remove the old, existing caulk. This tool will cleanly remove existing caulk with a simple scraping motion. Make sure that the blade is plastic, as a metal blade can scratch and damage plastic bathtubs. If you are installing a new bathtub, there won’t be any old caulk to remove! Skip this section and concentrate on applying new caulk.
A utility knife is another option for a quick removal of caulk. Ensure that the blade is plastic. Although you can buy specialty caulk removers, these can damage plastic bathtubs. Fiberglass and acrylic tubs can also be easily scratched. Stick to plastic blades for these too. Use sharp strokes to scrape away the old caulk.
Place the blade flush against the surface of the bathtub, and use small, quick strokes to scrape the caulk. This will remove the caulk from the surface cleanly. This motion will cause the caulk to flake away in long, thin pieces. Once you have gone around the bathtub removing old caulk, do a final check to find any spots you may have missed.
Use tweezers to pry out any hard to reach caulk. Clean up the pieces of old caulk. Wipe up and remove any pieces of caulk that you can see. Then vacuum the tub to remove any leftover, hidden pieces. Wipe down the bathtub with denatured alcohol. Use an old rag to wipe down all of the areas of the bathtub where caulk was with denatured alcohol.
This will help to clean the surface in preparation to apply the new caulk. If there are any particularly stubborn pieces of caulk that won’t come away, then you can also use denatured alcohol to help remove these. Soak a rag in denatured alcohol and leave it resting over the caulk for 2 days. Then it should easily scrape away.
Contrast black with white. The drama that a black bathroom can offer is most prevalent when there is a healthy amount of white to provide some striking contrast. The brighter the white the better. Further, classic white fixtures, such as the sink and tub, will not only provide great contrast to black, but will reflect light well.
Another good way to add contrast to dark walls is by painting the ceiling white. This will also help thebathroom feel cleaner and more open. Incorporate texture. If material costs are not a factor, consider going with black marble walls. The variously-colored veins that run through marble will add subtle and appealing contrast. Another way to add texture along with a touch of black is by staining any wood features with an ebony stain.
Dark, textured materials create shadows within a 2-D surface, which imbues a room with character in class. Opt for black flooring. A great alternative to black walls is black flooring. This is likely the best option in bathrooms do not have windows. The classic example would be black, reflective tiles, perhaps held in place with a bright white grout.
Checkered white andblack tilesis also popular, and for good reason – it adds both class and enjoyment to a bathroom. Outfit the bathroom with black items. There are plenty of specific ways to add an extra splash of black to the bathroom. For instance, a dark black floor mat will look especially good on a light colored floor surrounded by black walls. If only some of your walls or your cabinets will be black, consider hanging photos in black frames.
Whatever you choose, try to feature black accessories in locations that will stand out. For instance, store folded black towels on metal or glass shelves, as opposed to hanging them in front of a black wall.
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Paint only one or two walls black. If you want all of the walls in the bathroom to be black, it’s likely better to go with black tile, as the reflection offered by the tile will prevent the room from being too dark. You can add depth and class to a bathroom by painting one or two of the walls black, however. More specifically, opt to paint the wall furthest from the door black. This will make the bathroom feel larger. It can also be striking to paint small, oddly-shaped walls black as well.
Avoid painting any sloped walls, especially walls that rise to the ceiling, with an especially dark paint. Select an off-black paint. Straight “jet” black should be avoided, especially flat black. Extremely dark, matte black walls will actually make your bathroom seem smaller, if not a bit depressing. Fortunately, black paint blended with another color can often add a sophisticated look to certain sections of your bathroom.
For instance, select a black with a bit of gray or brown in it. As a rule of thumb, if the rest of your home features cool tones, go with a grayish black. If most of your home features warm tones, opt for a brownish black instead. Another great option is a black paint with a bit of blue or purple undertone. These are especially good in bathrooms that include wood accents.
Get a high quality paint. Some paints are designed to be used in bathrooms specifically – but this is mostly a marketing gimmick. More to the point, a high quality, self-priming paint will have many of the qualities you need in a bathroom paint, including mildew-resistance and a tough, tight finish to keep moisture out. In terms of finish, lean towards semi-gloss, as this tends to be the most resilient, and the easiest to wash.
Aside from quality paint, good painting technique is also vital. This will include washing, and potentially sanding, beforehand. Don’t try to match black paint to other black decor. If you’ll be decorating with other shades of black in the bathroom – for instance, on cabinetry or fixtures – do not try to match the color of your wall paint exactly. If you use multiple shades of black that are similar, but not identical, to one another, the results will look better.
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Install the gasket. The gasket is a rubber or plastic piece that sits between the faucet and the sinkto ensure a proper seal and prevent leaks. Fit the gasket over the bottom of the faucet, matching the holes in the gasket with the tailpipes and valves on the faucet. Plastic gaskets generally snap onto the faucet, so be sure to seat them properly so the faucet is tightly sealed. If your faucet didn’t come with a gasket, you’ll need to apply sealant or plumber’s putty before installing the faucet. Follow the manufacturer’s directions and lay down a thin layer of sealant or putty right before you put in the faucet.
Wrap all the threads with plumber’s tape. Plumber’s tape is designed to lubricate fittings and create a better seal between components. Wrap the end of the faucet tailpipes with a layer of plumber’s tape, making sure the tape doesn’t extend beyond the end of the pipe. The tailpipes are where the water supply hose will attach to the faucet, and the tape will prevent leaks.
Insert the new faucet. Hold the faucet in both hands and carefully set it into the mounting holes. Match the tailpipes and valves with the proper holes, and place the faucet into position. Once the faucet is in the mounting holes, insert a washer over each tailpipe, and then twist on the nuts by hand. To tighten the nuts, turn them to the right (clockwise). When you’ve tightened the nuts by hand, finish tightening them by turning them another quarter turn with the adjustable wrench if necessary. Avoid tightening the nuts any further, or you could damage the sink.
Attach the water supply hoses. Start by attaching the hoses to the faucet first. Attach each hose to the tailpipe of the faucet, and then tighten the nut by hand. To finish tightening the nuts, use the basin wrench to turn each nut a quarter turn to the right (clockwise). Once the hoses are attached to the new faucet, reattach them to the water supply. Turn the nuts by hand to the right (clockwise), then tighten them the rest of the way with the adjustable wrench.
If you are attaching the supply lines to copper pipes with threaded fittings, hold the copper pipe securely while connecting the supply lines to ensure the pipes don’t twist or break. Turn on the water and test the faucet. When everything is connected and tightened, turn the water back on by turning the shutoff valve to the left (counterclockwise). Then turn on the taps to flush out the new faucet. When the water is running, check for leaks and drips. To flush the faucet, simply let the hot and cold water run for 1 to 2 minutes.
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Painting the Perfect Finish. Mix the paint. Make sure your paint is thoroughly blended and free of clumps or separation. You can do this with an electric drill with a paint paddle attachment if the paint has been sitting in storage for a while, or simply give it a stir if you’re just bringing it home. The better the paint is mixed, the smoother coverage it will create. Oil based paints may separate more than other varieties. Do your blending outside and set down a few sheets of newspaper or cardboard to protect from splatters.
Apply the base coat. Paint cracks, crevices and other hard to reach spaces first, using a brush to give you greater control. Afterwards, go over flat, broad surfaces using a dense foam roller. Let the initial coat set up for a couple of hours before applying subsequent coats. Don’t worry too much about making the first coat flawless. You can cover up any visible imperfections with later coats.
Paint additional coats as needed. Most bathroom cabinets will require two to three coats for a seamless finish. For the final coat, use a steady hand and a consistent brushing pattern. Watch out for drips, as these can permanently settle into the complete finish once it dries. When you’re done, the your bathroom cabinets should have a rich, uniform appearance.
Use your best judgment after applying the base coat to decide how many follow-up coats will be necessary. Many new types of paint are self-leveling, which means they won’t run or clot as easily. Working with these paints can save you a lot of frustration in achieving the perfect finish, as well as additional mess during cleanup.
Allow the paint to dry completely. The paint will dry to the touch within 24-48 hours, though it may take up to a week for it to harden to the point that it becomes resistant to scuffs and other marks. Leave the doors open to provide air flow. Keep small children and pets away from wet paint as it dries. Leaving the fan running in the bathroom may help the paint set up at a faster rate.
Replace the doors and hardware. Once the cabinets are dry, reassemble the doors, put all hardware back into place and enjoy the newfound beauty and relaxation of your bathroom. Make sure the paint dries completely before installing the hardware or it will adhere to the paint.
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Like any room in the house, the bathroom can benefit from a makeover every once in awhile. If you want to update the look of your bathroom but aren’t enthused about the idea of dropping an untold sum of money on new installations, consider simply repainting your cabinets or vanity. A fresh coat of paint can drastically change the appearance of your bathroom without the difficulty or expense that comes with extensive renovation. Simply pick a color, then line, prime and paint, and you’re guaranteed to develop a new appreciation for your cozy washroom overnight.
Sanding and Priming the Cabinets. Clean the cabinets first. Before you sand, prime, or paint, you need to thoroughly clean the cabinets. Put on gloves and mix trisodium phosphate (TSP) and water according to the instructions on the box. Dip a sponge in the solution, wring it out, and wipe down each cabinet. Then, wipe down each cabinet with a clean cloth to remove any residue. Be sure to clean the inside and outside of each cabinet.
Remove all doors and hardware. Before you get started, take off the cabinet doors, pull out drawers and pop off false drawer plates. You’ll also want to unscrew any handles, pulls, stops or hinges that might get in the way while you’re painting. This way, you’ll be able to work without obstructions. Keep everything together in one place to avoid losing important pieces. Labeling the individual bits of hardware or placing them in separate plastic bags can make it easier to keep track of everything. If you’d also like to use this project as a chance to install new hardware, this would be an opportune time.
Sand the bathroomcabinets to remove existing paint. Go over the outside of the doors, panels and baseboards with a high-grit sandpaper. There’s no need to remove every trace of paint or lacquer—you just want to make the cabinet’s outer surfaces coarse enough for the primer to cling to. Work out any rough edges or irregularities and aim for a smooth finish. Put on gloves and eye protection before sanding. Sand using smooth, circular motions, moving outward as you progress. Run the sandpaper straight along edges and narrow panels. Don’t forget to get inside corners and along the inner edges of the bathroomcabinet doors. Use a Shop-Vac to deal with the dust and debris when you’re done.
Brush on a coat of primer. Apply a basic primer to the areas you plan on painting. One thin, even coat should do the job. Primer will be useful for protecting the cabinet’s underlying materials and getting the paint to hold better. Primers should be specially formulated for use with the type of paint you’re working with. Water-based primers, for example, should be used only with water-based paints. Lightly sand dry primer to make the painting surface more uniform.
Put down painter’s tape. Use a few strips of painter’s tape to mask the underside and inner edges of the bathroom cabinets, including the area where the bathroomcabinet meets the wall. Mask the countertops as well. Make sure the tape is straight and even to avoid glaring mistakes. Painter’s tape will allow you to establish exact boundaries for your paint job and cover areas that you want to keep clear.
Wider tape will give you a greater margin of error and can be useful for painting near walls and trim. If you’d prefer not to remove your bathroomcabinet doors prior to painting, fold a piece of painter’s tape over the hinges to keep paint from getting on them. If your bathroom is small, consider painting the drawers and bathroomcabinet doors in another space that has better ventilation.
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