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The Knowledge of Install a Bathroom Fan

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Wait 24 hours before turning on the water. To give the caulk and other adhesives time to dry, wait at least a full day. Then, you can turn on the water and check for leaks. If you find any problems, contact a certified plumber. Make sure you apply this paste to the corners of your shower door’s frame, as this is where rust and soap scum are likely to build up and harder to clean otherwise.


You can run the vent through the sidewall or roof, whichever is most convenient. Just make sure the duct pipe is as straight as possible and that it won’t be stretched too tightly. Attach the vent cap. The process for attaching the vent cap will vary depending on whether the exit point is on the roof or sidewall.


If your exit point is on the sidewall, pick a point between two wall studs and take some reference measurements on the inside so you can locate the same point on the outside. Use a 4-inch hole saw to cut through wall from the outside, then secure the vent cap in place.


If your exit point is on the roof, draw an appropriate sized circle on the inside and use a reciprocating saw to cut it out. Then get on the roof (taking all of the proper safety precautions) and remove the shingles covering the newly cut hole. Install the vent cap, using roofing cement and roofing nails, then replace any loose shingles. Move back into the attic and attach the end of the duct pipe to the vent cap’s connector duct using foil duct tape.


Wire the connections in the housing unit. Depending on the type of fan, you may need to wire the connections from the attic or from the bathroom. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions and double check that the power is off before proceeding. Open up the housing unit and pull out the fan wires from the electrical splice unit. Strip 5⁄8 inch (1.6 cm) back from each of the wires on both the fan cable and the electrical cable you inserted earlier.

How Filling Gaps and Sanding the Tub?

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Prepare the epoxy putty before applying it to any cracks. Wear rubber gloves to protect your skin, and read the manufacturer’s instructions before you begin. Open up the putty and tear or cut off a small section of the putty. Work the putty between your fingers until it is pliable, kind of like how you would massage a piece of play dough to work it into a new shape. If you can’t find epoxy putty, buy a similar kind of tub-repair paste from your local hardware store.


Fill any cracks or chips in your tub with the epoxy putty. Use your fingers to push putty into any chipped areas. Depending on how large the crack is, tear your putty pieces so the size is about right to just overfill the area. Make sure to push down on the putty firmly so that it makes its way into all the crevices. At this stage, it’s okay if the putty isn’t flat with the rest of the tub’s surface.


Use a putty knife to smooth over each of the patched areas. Take your putty knife and position the blade so it’s flat against the surface of the tub. Gently scrape it over the filled sections to remove any excess putty. Wipe off the blade from time to time with a damp paper towel. If your working on a curved area, you may need to adjust your knife’s position a few times to get the entire area smooth.


Sand the entire bathtub to work down the gloss and prepare it for paint. Use wet/dry sandpaper, and sand it with 400 grit sandpaper first, and then do it again with 600 grit sandpaper. Attach your sandpaper to a sanding block, and use a spray bottle to wet down the tub as you work. The wet-sanding will eliminate a lot of dust, but it’s a good idea to keep wearing your respirator, especially if you’re working in a small space.


Rinse out the tub and dry it completely before painting it. After the tub has been sanded, rinse out the interior and wipe down the exterior sides to remove any sandpaper and grit remnants. Use clean towels to dry it off thoroughly. The tub needs to be 100% dry before you start painting it, so use as many towels as you need to.

Replace Your Bathroom Sink

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Because they get heavy everyday use, bathroom sinks can easily become chipped, stained, or scratched over time. When this happens, you may want to install a new sink to enhance the ambience of your bathroom and create a fresh, clean look. While replacing a bathroom sink takes a bit of time, and replacing the faucet is a separate but essential element of the process, the overall job is manageable for most DIYers.

Choose a silicone caulk intended for use with bathroom fixtures. Don’t use acrylic or other non-silicone caulks. Lower the sink into the hole in the countertop. Lift the sink carefully and slowly drop it straight down into the opening. Once it’s in place, push down on the sink and wipe off any excess silicone that squeezes out with paper towels.

This job may be a bit easier if you have a second person reach up from inside the cabinet to support the sink from below. Attach the sink to the underside of the counter with fastener clips. Follow the instructions that come with your new sink regarding the placement of the clips. Either tighten them by hand or with a screwdriver, as indicated by the instructions. Once secured, they’ll apply pressure to hold the sink tight to the underside of the counter.

Not all sinks require clips for installation. If your model does use clips, they should come in the package with your new sink. If you’re missing a clip or 2, it’s possible that the clips from your old sink may work.

Run a bead of caulk around the rim of the sink where it meets the countertop. Your goal here is to create a waterproof barrier between the rim of the sink and the countertop so that water can’t seep in under the sink rim. Once you’ve run the bead of caulk around the sink rim, wet your index finger and run it around the entire bead to smooth the caulk in place. Then use damp paper towels to wipe away any excess. Use the same silicone caulk you used to adhere the underside of the sink to the countertop.

How Replacing a Top-Mount Sink?

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Remove the clips under the sink that hold it against the countertop. Many, but not all, sinks have clips underneath them that create a pressure connection against the underside of the counter. If your sink has them, loosen them either by hand or with a screwdriver. If your new sink requires clips, it should come with them. However, you may want to keep these old ones for the time being, just in case they might come in handy.

Cut any sealant between the sink and the countertop with a utility knife. Carefully run the blade of the knife between the rim of the sink and the countertop. Doing so will slice through the caulk or other sealant that secures the sink and countertop together. Work slowly and carefully so you don’t cut into the countertop, especially if it’s made of laminated wood. Of course, if you’re replacing the countertop as well, you can be as messy as you like.

Lift out the old sink from the counter. If you can get a good grip from above, you can lift it straight up and out. Otherwise, have a second person push up from below, then lift out the sink when it pops up. Once the old sink is out of the way, scrape away any residual caulk or sealant on the countertop. Use a plastic putty knife for scraping, then clean up any residue with a rag dipped in mineral spirits.

Install the faucet and drain on the new sink. You can either remove the faucet and drain from the old sink and reuse them, or buy a new faucet and drain to go with your new sink. If you are not experienced with this type of project, you may be better off with a new faucet and drain, since they will come with detailed installation instructions.

Faucet and drain installations will vary quite a bit based on the particular brand and model you select. However, with a good set of instructions, it is a project most DIYers can handle. Otherwise, contact a plumber. Apply silicone caulk to the underside of the new sink’s rim. Squeeze a steady strip of caulk all the way around the underside of the rim. This will hold the sink in place and prevent water from dripping down into the cabinet.