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The Knowledge of Install a Bathroom Fan

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Wait 24 hours before turning on the water. To give the caulk and other adhesives time to dry, wait at least a full day. Then, you can turn on the water and check for leaks. If you find any problems, contact a certified plumber. Make sure you apply this paste to the corners of your shower door’s frame, as this is where rust and soap scum are likely to build up and harder to clean otherwise.


You can run the vent through the sidewall or roof, whichever is most convenient. Just make sure the duct pipe is as straight as possible and that it won’t be stretched too tightly. Attach the vent cap. The process for attaching the vent cap will vary depending on whether the exit point is on the roof or sidewall.


If your exit point is on the sidewall, pick a point between two wall studs and take some reference measurements on the inside so you can locate the same point on the outside. Use a 4-inch hole saw to cut through wall from the outside, then secure the vent cap in place.


If your exit point is on the roof, draw an appropriate sized circle on the inside and use a reciprocating saw to cut it out. Then get on the roof (taking all of the proper safety precautions) and remove the shingles covering the newly cut hole. Install the vent cap, using roofing cement and roofing nails, then replace any loose shingles. Move back into the attic and attach the end of the duct pipe to the vent cap’s connector duct using foil duct tape.


Wire the connections in the housing unit. Depending on the type of fan, you may need to wire the connections from the attic or from the bathroom. Make sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions and double check that the power is off before proceeding. Open up the housing unit and pull out the fan wires from the electrical splice unit. Strip 5⁄8 inch (1.6 cm) back from each of the wires on both the fan cable and the electrical cable you inserted earlier.

How Adding Coats to the Walls?

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Prime the walls if you’re making a major color change or patching holes. If your current paint is in good shape, you made no repairs, and you’re not making a drastic color change, you can skip priming or use a self-priming paint. However, if your bathroom is currently dark and your new color is light, it’s wise to prime. Use the same techniques for primer as you would for the top coats: cut the edges with a brush first, then use a roller to paint broader areas.

You should also spot-prime any areas you patched. Drywall compound is porous and will absorb paint, resulting in noticeable dull spots. Priming your repairs will help keep them inconspicuous. Use an angled brush to paint the edges around a wall. Dip the brush in paint, tap off excess, and cut in about 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) from the edge of the wall. Then turn back and bring the tip of the brush to the trim, taking care not to paint beyond the edge of the wall. To prevent unsightly lines, paint along the edges of 1 wall, then finish the rest of the wall with a roller before moving on to the next one.

Complete 1 wall at a time so you’re always painting over wet paint. Painting over dried or tacky paint leads to noticeable lap lines. If you paint the trim all around the room, it’ll dry by the time you pass the roller over the rest of the wall. Go with a satin or semigloss finish for bathroom wall paint. These finishes strike a balance between disguising imperfections and durability.

Cover large areas with a paint roller. Fill the well of a paint tray, dip the roller, and roll it over the tray to get rid of excess paint. Start at a corner, and run the roller over the wall in a vertical stroke along the full height of the wall. With each pass, overlap both the previous stroke you made with the roller and the paint along the wall’s edges. When you’ve finished the first wall, proceed to the next. Paint the edges with a brush, and use a roller for the larger areas.

Dip the roller in paint frequently and avoid letting the roller dry out. You don’t want it dripping with paint, but keeping it wet helps prevent lap lines. Let the first coat dry for at least 4 hours, or as directed. Allow the recommended drying time before applying another coat. For latex paint, you should be able to apply a second in 4 hours; oil-based paints may require 24 hours.