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How Applying the Paint?

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Tape protective sheets on the walls and floor. Before you paint, use masking or painters tape to secure plastic sheeting to the walls surrounding the tub, as well as to the floor underneath the tub. You may also want to lay plastic sheeting over any other fixtures, like the toilet or sink, and remove decorations, towels, and beauty products.


The paint you’re going to use is an acrylic spray paint, and the “dust” from it will settle on the walls and floors. Put on a respirator and wear old clothes once you’re ready to paint. Your clothes are going to get covered in paint dust, so wear things that you don’t mind getting dirty. And use a respirator for safety purposes—the fumes from the paint will be really strong. Remember to keep a window open or a fan running during the painting process.


Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions to prepare it properly. For a cast-iron or fiberglass tub, you can use acrylic urethane enamel, which may already come mixed for you, or you may have to mix it it, just depending on what kind of kit you purchased.
For fiberglass tubs, you can also use a two-part epoxy paint instead of the acrylic. The epoxy paint can be used on porcelain and ceramic tubs, too.


The easiest option for DIYing the paint job is to purchase kits that are designed specifically for that purpose. Some companies even provide spray cans of acrylic urethane enamel that you don’t have to mix at all. Load your spray gun and put the lid on the paint can. Follow the spray gun’s instructions for how much paint should be loaded into the body. Keep the lid on the paint can so that the enamel doesn’t start to dry up.


If you don’t want to use a spray gun, you could also use paint brushes and rollers. In that case, you wouldn’t need to load anything and could just mix the paint in its can to prepare. Coat the entire tub with long, even motions. Work systematically by starting at a top interior corner and working your way across the length of the tub. Keep the spray gun about 8 inches (20 cm) away from the tub. Repeat this process until the entire interior is painted, and then move on to the outside of the tub.

The Knowledge of Replacing an Undermount Sink

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Secure the sink in position with a piece of lumber and a bar clamp. Cut a section of 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) lumber so it’s at least a few inches/centimeters longer than the width of the opening for the sink in the countertop. Lay this piece of wood across the opening. Then, while a second person lifts the new sink up into place from beneath, feed the bar clamp up through the drain opening of the sink so that one of its clamps holds up the sink from below. Secure the other clamp to the piece of wood and tighten it.

Make sure the clamp is tight enough to make the some of the silicone caulk squeeze out between the rim of the sink and the underside of the counter. Wipe away this excess caulk with a damp rag. Secure the included clips in place with screws or epoxy. Your new undermount sink will come with support clips to place around the underside of the sink where it meets the underside of the counter. In some cases, these clips may attach with screws. If so, drill pilot holes and use a screwdriver to secure the clips in place. Otherwise, use the brand or type of epoxy recommended by the sink manufacturer.

In most cases, the clips are adhered in place with a 2-part epoxy that hardens in about 10 minutes after being combined. Follow the product instructions carefully and apply the proper amount to each clip. Then press them into place as per the installation instructions for your sink.

Wait 24 hours, then install the drain. Even though the epoxy should be fully set in 10 minutes, it’s important to give the silicone adhesive time to cure fully. Leave the piece of lumber and bar clamp in place for a day before removing them. After that, you can put the drain in place and continue with the installation.

Like faucets, drain installations vary by type and brand, but the process is DIY-friendly if you follow the instructions carefully. You could rely on the epoxy to hold everything in place after 10 minutes and not wait the full 24 hours before proceeding, but this is not recommended. Be patient.