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The Knowledge of Bathtub Installation


For a fiberglass surround, set the entire piece in place so it covers the tub flange. Drive screws with an electric screwdriver into the divots along the sides and top of the surround so it’s secured to the studs. Seal the gap between the tile and tub with silicone sealant. Once you’ve secured the tiles to the backerboard, place a thin bead of silicone around the bottom of the of the tiles to fill in the gap.


Put the tip of the sealant dispenser into the gap, and pull the line slowly so it applies smoothly. Wipe any excess sealant away with your finger. Use your finger to press the bead of caulk into the crack and create a smooth finish by running it over the caulk from one end to the other. Be sure to give the caulk enough time to completely dry before using the bathtub as well.


Drying time will vary based on the type you use, so read the instructions included carefully. Get a 2-component epoxy chip repair kit from the bathroom remodeling or adhesive section of a home improvement store if your kit did not come with it. Put painter’s tape on the walls and around any plumbing fixtures.


Tape along the edges of the tub where they touch the walls and around the faucet and other fixtures. Even if you have a steady hand, it’s easy for paint to go astray! Painter’s tape is the blue masking tape that you can find at hardware and paint stores. Apply 1 coat of primer with a brush and roller.


Use a roller to roll on the primer onto the large, flat sections of the tub like the floor and sides, then use a brush to get into the corners and curved parts. Let it dry for at least 2-3 hours before you start to paint on the new finish. Priming the surface is an important part of ensuring that the new finish adheres correctly so that you end up with the correct texture. Make sure that the primer is completely dry to the touch before you paint over it.

How Removing Fiberglass Bathroom Surfaces Tough Stains?

Remove soap scum with baking soda and water. Once soap scum accumulates, it can be difficult to get off with regular bathroom cleaners. Mix water and baking soda until it has a paste-like consistency and apply the paste to the soap scum areas. Leave the applied mixture alone for a couple of hours and then rinse it off with warm water.

Use an acid to dissolve stubborn soap scum. More challenging soap scum might need an acid, such as vinegar, to help dissolve it. For best results, soak a cloth with vinegar and cover the stained area with it for about an hour.

After removing the cloth, clean the area with warm soapy water and a soft sponge. Stronger acids, such as diluted muriatic acid, should only be applied while wearing rubber gloves and as a last resort.

Bleach dark stains with hydrogen peroxide. Deeper, darker stains may be challenging to get rid of with regular cleaning products. Place several layers of clean white cloths over the stained area and pour hydrogen peroxide on top. Let the hydrogen peroxide soak in overnight and in the morning, rinse and dry the area.

Use acetone or paint thinners on extreme stains. Difficult stains can be removed with acetone, which is the main ingredient in nail polish remover, or paint thinners such as turpentine.

Soak a clean white cloth with the solution that you’re using and gently rub the stained area until it returns to its natural color. These solutions are fine to use occasionally on stained fiberglass, but should be used sparingly.